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Lots people here use MS Works perfect and affordable prices

SteffenJ3316V wrote:Lots people here use MS Works perfect and affordable prices

Any suggestion on MS 2 vs MS 3? Some money to save on MS 2, but do I also "save" functions I want (maby not now, but in the future)?

Pål

make it as futureproof as possible Pal, if not immediate, you'll be glad you did at some point, plus from the tuners perspective the later the product, the more tech support and updates available to them too.

I would go with the latest version MS3

Slow progress so far, so hope you can enjoy this promo video for my racing series while you wait for next update on progress...

http://youtu.be/B0njB7YpKHc

MS3 ordered, but New question - engine mounts:

My engine mounts are "sloppy", so the engine moves a lot when rewing. Is new monunts the answer, or have anyone made another solution for this...?

Pål

Hi

I've seen poeple uprate the side mount before . I think someone has done this on this forum . But a cant remember who the rear gearbox mount can deform. I've rotated it half a turn to take up the slake . You could probably pack it out with nylon - rubber and do the same with the top mount too.

Regards John

For the engine, new centre upper mount and solid mount the side stabiliser. For the rear gearbox bush we cut up some old koni bump stops to pack the mount as JB suggests above.

Thank guy's!

Any pictures? New top mount is not easy to find, have tried to find a supplier here in Norway and on Ebay, but no luck so far...

Pål

Not a great photo to show it but you can see most of it up on the left hand side. We made a link up and used old rod ends with a bracket visible on the chassis leg:-

Great

Pål

Slow progress due to new house and moving, but made a trip to the car yesterday and mountet the engine. But, as usual a new challange when checking the left hub and wheelbearing. This is not moving easy enough round, and a new bearing was ordered.

Off course, this is not like the one one the car, so I'm stuck on solution. The new bearing (and the one in the manual) is one complete unit, but the one on the car is a split type with a "sheld" on inner/outer side and two loose rings of bearing inside. It seams that the rubber seal on the outer "sheld" is rubbing against the inner hub, when I remove this it runs smooth.

Anyone got an idea? Do I have a hub from a Sud, or is there differens in the 33- series?

definetly not a sud front hub, they didn't mount the calipers out there.
could it be a sprint one? now sure what differences there are but seem to remember the 16V shafts are different to the 8V's so could well be a different bearing/flange

Are you sure it's the wrong bearing from what you are explaining it sounds like the one in the hub is a one piece bearing but when you pull the hub flange out the outer stays in the hub and needs pressing out and the bearing outer pieces are one stuck on the flange and the other falls out . This is normal with press in bearings hope this helps or I might be wrong if you have tapered bearing but you have said you have ball bearings

Ok, will try to sort out the bearing issue within short....

In the meantime I need to order new tires. Have been using Toyo R888 the past two years, but is there other experiences with other brands in here? This is the list of approved tires: http://www.corsaitaliana.no/om-corsa-it ... -dekkliste

Bearing sortet out (the new was right, the old total waste), Avon tires on the car, engine in, new exhaust manifold in place, but engine still have the same lack of power as last race...

It runs eighter to lean or rich, it's a bit more noise (ratt-ta-ta-ta) and small "poff" even at steady RPM, so have ordered new fuel filter and lambda, but need some help in trouble shooting.

To bad to drive 6 hrs to a race with 80% power. It was running so good and smooth (even track record for my class) before the damper broke and I ended in the sand (I don't see that as a reason, but it was the turning point)

Pål

I've just began using racing tyres this year mate. My first season but sadly I wont be able to make the 2nd race :/

toyo's 888 are FANTASTIC !

R1R's are good-ish

Nangang's are ok-ish

Federals are crap

but Dunlop Direzza's 03G R1 are freakin amazing !

Just out of curiosity.... how much did it cost you to rebuild the broken shock ?

The front shock was an easy fix, it was just the mounting plates on the foot that broke off, so new foot was ordered. The internal parts was ok

Pål

A short update for this season so far:

- Avon tires sucks....!! Way to soft, so back to Toyo. Attached you can see how my left front tires looks after 2 races and 1 qualification. Good thing I checked the wheel nuts before race three - to bad it was only 5min left to start, but found a friend with a spare tires, so after some panic work I did the race with one 14" and one 15" front wheel

- Engine still only 80% after 4 races. All sensors checked/changed, but should have checked the most obvious fist - timing belt/mark...... Strange that both sides have jumped one/two teeth, but at least the engine now both sounds and run normal again - so really looking forward to next race!!

Let the throphy hunt continue

Pål

Wow......that tyre looks terrible!

Well Gents, Don C is back

1.st place in 5th race, but "only" 4th in race 6 due to some trafic. But most important, everything is working (almost), so now it holiday until August and race 7 & 8.

Some upgrades during the summer, but most maintenance, so looking forward to next race

Well done, congratulations on your results.

Had a look under the car today, as it made some noise from the left side last race, and there i was:

The side engine mount had come off and swinged into the inner cross of the axel.

But think I have made a workable solution with a new adjutable "arm" from a wire tension (of a sail boat), a standard engine mount (cut out the rubber from the engine bracket, and pushed in the round engine mount). The an eye-bolt in the chassi.

Crossing fingers...

Now it looks like this: