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with the renewed efforts to keep the progress going I went down to the car after work before settling in for the night, once home, fed and watered it's hard to go out again so best off doing a couple of extra hours at the days end

as the car is now free of front suspension the access to repair the inner wheel arch/sill end area was greatly improved so hopes were on that it may be a simple enough repair....
the mounting holes and reinforcing bracket where the bottom arm fastens looked a bit crispy, a hole in the lower section
also inside the cavity there was a burst though on the vertical which meant only one thing, rust between the panels
so nothing for it but to start drilling out the spot welds and hoping it would be just a case of removing, cleaning and repairing a small amount...
as we can see, it was well worth the effort to take off a seemingly fairly solid area....

once off the repairs needed become clear. quite a section will be cut out on the vertical which will probably mean cutting inside the car, luckily the main bottom section (out of 3 layers) is still in very good order so a decent guide is still in place, just the vertical measurements needed to be taken into account when the welding starts...

Steady progress then Kev - but it is all coming together very nicely and - as always- it is a credit to you.

The Integrale is such a great car. I can see why you are excited about this project Kev.
My boss had one as a Company car around 1990 but I am only now starting to read up on them.
Fascinating to see your progress and it seems that nothing fazes you.
It seems that this car was meant to be yours. So pleased you kept your eye on it for so long and you are bringing it back to life.
Brgds,
Simon

Don't know about not being fazed Simon, more that I just haven't realised what I can't do yet! So I have a stab at most of it..just a variation on the method

So tonight I did the now usual few hours after work, plan on doing this at least a couple of nights a week for the foreseeable

The rusted section chopped out ready for a new plate to be made up
Thick gauge steel used, holes for plug welds
All fitted in and ground back
It's all the area behind the pedals, handily near a strong seam so all the lost strength is back in
Etch primed for protection until I go back, probably Thursday or Friday evening

Nice one Kev, still plugging away.
Top man.
Good to see the Imp coming along as well.

Very impressive, after this and the Imp you will be ready to tackle just about anything !

Kev,

knowing how you are always looking for something to do, especially if it has a Lancia badge attached, thought you might like this one:

http://www.angliacarauctions.co.uk/en/c ... beta-2000/



Ian

ooh that's' nice Ian

That Beta coupe went for £1,150, the other one, in better condition, went for about £6K

nice to see the beta coupe gaining value too, used to be only the VX ones that got a decent price

last October since I did a thing on the car

slacker!

plans are in place to get started again very soon though.

decided now I've a little space back in the shed that I'd take the gearbox apart to see what condition it was in but also to see exactly what I'd got, 16V or 8V gearbox

pretty cruddy so everything needs to come apart for checking and cleaning..
got the gearsets out, running rapidly out of space for some very small items so I best quit now before I lose some parts!
ratios confirm an 8V gearbox, seemingly in decent condition so far.....

with the Imp almost out of my hands for now I am getting back onto the integrale on Wednesdays for a good while, hopefully to try and get all the welding done...

i'd already cut out a replacement drivers front strut top from the spares HF I bought last year, the aim to use as much of that as |I could but leaving the original chassis number still in place which luckily had decent metal under it still.

first task was to brace up the front end incase it decided to move like the HF one did, although that still had an engine hanging in there!

I also made up an alignment bar that links across from the other strut to aid alignment, a bar welded downwards off that rests on the chassis rail to recreate the right height, measurements take care of other directions
the engine stabiliser bracket that isn't on the HF panel needed drilling off to be re-used
a bit more figuring out where to cut it for the best, which bits could remain with the car, where it would all provide a good overlapping weld for strength then time to get chopping...
you can see from the remains of the original strut top panel why it needed changing!
a bit of fettling, some a bit too enthusiastically but not the end of the world and it's in a good place for plug and seam welding. some minor adjustments as it goes on and it'll be just fine
i'll treat a couple of spots before it goes on whilst it's easy, back on it next Wednesday

Nice touch using a bit of the original arc to locate the new section.
Top man.

Location is key mate, as you have hinted at.

Chopped a few more little bits out of the donor HF this afternoon ready to keep the integrale going. Amazing how they differ in where they are strong and rotten despite being 49 cars apart on the production line. Shows how they are looked after once built is mor eimportant than anything.

Went up to Jims place on Monday night after work to weld the section in, handy with his place being 5 mins from my door, makes grabbing an hour much easier than the unit which is an hours round trip away!

This morning I set about grinding all the welds back which takes longer than welding it in!

The section of arch that leads back to the A post had some rot beyond where I'd cut the repair section off the White HF donor car so I chopped a load more off it to complete the repairs.

A small rust spot where the chassis rail meets the firewall lead to a big hole needing to be cut out to get the rot gone..
A small hole in the arch gave the clue too..
Once all the pieces were removed back to good metal in all directions I was left with this..
As you will guess, I've finally gotten the Plasma cutter out of its' box, makes life easier cutting out in tight spots but does leave a bit of cleaning up to do which I use a carbide bit in a die grinder. Angle grinders aren't always easy to get into tight spots!

Cleaned and shaped with a freshly made repair section out of thickish steel.
In and ground back

A section then made up to join the corner reinforce back in place
A smaller Piece to continue the downward bracket that fastens the false bulkhead panel then it's all given a decent few coats of etch to keep it fresh for now, the arch section I will box in probably Friday after work so the paint will have half a chance of drying off before final welds..
Happy with my days work and that one of the worst sections has been done now, in reality it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, so the passenger side should go easier...

Excellent work. Impressed. Keep going.

a few days off work this week and next, not going away so will sneak a few days on the integrale

managed to get the passenger strut top repaired using the white HF cars donor one as per the other side, didn't use as much this time though so I could keep the original mounting bolt holes but also it was only rotten in the gulley at the side really

Been up to Jims again today having a look at the chassis rail bottom that I got a used section off the HF turbo to use to repair with.

First off though there was a rusty patch in the corner where it meets the bulkhead, near where the pedal box bolts so needs looking at in further detail.
Once the bolts and corner bracket were removed and the grinder given a tickle over it then the rot appeared....
So once again more work than first appeared..viewed from inside I'd say that water had been getting in too
So the rot cut back to solid metal, double thick skinned too.
Patch made up with holes for plug welds and for the mounting bolts to go through.

All welded up
Inside sealed now, note where the plug welds have penetrated, important to see the burn to know they've stuck.
2nd reinforcing skin added and smoothed, both done in 1.6mm steel
With that all solid it was finally time to turn my attention to the chassis rail bottom. The section I cut from the HF looked OK with maybe some staining to the inside..
Once cut open though it wasn't bad at all
Bottom edge that needs sorting
Once I'd cut the rot out though it became evident that the HF and integrale are slightly different, there's a reinforcing bracket inside the chassis section that the HF turbo doesn't have, guess when the blurb says that the integrale had chassis strengthening they weren't lying! Altering the section of bottom plate is more work than making a new piece, so I'll just do that now after all. Will use the inner section though that has the brake flexi mount etc in it. Bit of cleaning then some protection which will do until my next visit

As you guys asked...here's a few updates as to where the car is at now.

The inner section was repaired to suit then prepped for an outer skin to be fitted
Lower inner edge of chassis rail where the brake flexi goes through was used off the HF turbo, good old donor car
The corner bracket that braces the area had some corrosion on one half so I made up a repair piece and welded it on complete with holes for plug welds
The outer section then got a panel made up and welded in. Not the easiest one to make despite the simple look, had to have a curve to the folded return rather than a simple folded edge plus curve up to meet the bottom of the original section, being in thick steel for strength added to the difficulty!

With that all complete the strengthening plate where the bottom arm mounts got welded back into position
The bottom part of the inner wheel arch to sill end was finally filled in with fresh steel
On the passenger chassis rail side there is an area that has a large gearbox mounting plate, looked pretty rough in places
Whilst we're at it, may as well get chopping!
New plate made up and using the inner brace to hold it in place
All strong again, including a bit further down

Lovely job Kev. Looks great with chunks of rot cut out and nice fresh steel let in.
Chassis will be great when it is all done and sealed and stone chipped and painted.
Top marks.

What appeared a small rusty mark on the inner wing soon developed further...
On the inside of the wheel arch the suspension strengthening plate seemed to be hiding some corrosion behind some sealant

Nothing for it but to cut off the strengthener and repair it properly, rather than just weld the gaps together like someone wanting a quick job may be tempted to do! Just as well seeing what was underneath!
I decided on making the repair sections in 2 pieces so I could seam weld it along the return section which is the chassis rail rather than my usual plug welds, bit of added strength
Lower section then welded into place
Before the strengthener went back on
A few smaller bits done, found some more holes under where the heater goes which will be repaired in due course, pulled all the wiring loom out so I can attach it to my dashboard whilst I have a reference one from the HF to see where it all goes, any volunteers?

Kegsti66 wrote:Lovely job Kev. Looks great with chunks of rot cut out and nice fresh steel let in.
Chassis will be great when it is all done and sealed and stone chipped and painted.
Top marks.

Yes, that's the plan mate. When it's all finally solid I'll put it on the rotisserie thingy and turn it around so I can get at everything to clean it all up, seal it properly and also get waxoyl stuff to run into areas that gravity won't always allow!

Like the idea of the two part repair patch Kev, that makes good sense.

I used Dinitrol in mine. It mists nice into the cavities and sills, runs well into the nooks and crannies and eventually sets. I find waxoyl sets too quick no matter how hot you get it.
I don't envy you that wire loom.

Your right about the waxoyl mate, I don't actually use it either, just can't remember the name of the stuff I do use! The Finnigans Waxoyl is a pain to use, doesn't like doing much more than being set in the can!
stuff I do use looks similar to what you've pictured, flows nicely from a schutz gun, nice and foggy as you say.
Is that a specific gun you've got there for it? Often wondered if an old bottom fed gun with a 3mm or bigger nozzle would do the job?

The gun we have was supposedly for the job, and you can put a 4ft lance on it to push it right inside box sections. However, as Dinitrol starts off runny (almost looks like a tin of used motor oil ) a schutz gun would work just as well and I am sure you could get it through a length of screen washer hose rammed into the end to get into sill sections etc.
I have never used it, but I also liked the look of the Upol Raptor stuff that one of our members used (I think Simonsud ?). He tinted it with two pack paint so it colours at the same time but adds the durable finish. Looks thick as well. I think if I had known about it when I did my car , things would have been done differently