Classic Alfa Forums

That gap between the headlamp and the front wing would make a nice location for an indicator, but obviously needs to be curved. There probably isn't a production lamp that would fit the bill, but faced with a similar situation I made my own LED matrix indicators using Philips Lumiled hyper orange LEDs and an old Land Rover reversing lens...



You could cut the pillow lens into a curve for this one, and arrange the LEDs and circuit board to conform to the shape of the aperture. Probably quite a lot of work to get it right though...

Lauren

Here's mine; not a good photo as its a black car in a dark garage..
From here I think (it was a long time ago though).
http://autoelectricalpartsuk.co.uk/prod ... ator_Lamps
They are LED so need an in line ballast resistor which is a couple of quid and have a thick rubbery backing so conform to the radius on the panel.

and a mountain of alfasud detritus filling up my shelves in the background i've just noticed...

Car Builder Solutions have a good selection of aftermarket indicators too.

The ballast resistor is used to dupe modern electronic flasher relays into thinking there is filament bulb attached. If you don't use a resistor the flasher runs fast to tell you there is a bulb out. I have a hybrid system (LEDs at the front and filament bulbs at the back) so couldn't use an all-LED flasher unit, so I used an old bi-metallic hazard flasher instead, without ballast resistors. Because its a hazard flasher, it is designed to flash at the same rate irrespective of whether it has 2 x 21W or 4 x 21W loads, and in fact is quite happy with the 26W or 52W load presented by my hybrid system. Best of all, it is really cheap!

Lauren

Excellent. Started looking at LEDs today and found a better number plate light while collecting my rebuilt starter and alternator.

Much smarter. Problem with so much stuff on the net is it looks so different in reality. Like the car.

Thanks for all the thoughts chaps.

Having a bit of trouble with the hand brake cable to the rear mini brakes. Rather than an awful kink in the cable as it goes around the suspension arm I am trying to fit a simple pulley wheel. Several fittings later it is still not quite there. Whether it will ever be is another thing altogether.
Also a bit concerned as to what will happen when the exhaust goes on.


For my twin webber carbs I am wondering if anyone has a nice photo of how the linkage goes together as it would be nice to do a job once !

Also I surmise that fitting the bellmouths and then filters over the top is the best way to go about it. Any thoughts or facts would be wonderful please.

Justsuds came up with a new one of these things......cannot get a tune out of it so surmise it must fit on the car !

Anyone with a photo that would assist me in understanding how it fits, could you please post it .

this is a picture of VJM's engine when it came out, the thermostat housing on this engine is the removable type but the positioning is the same. allen key bolt holds it to the block....

That is excellent Sorts out few pipes as well as the Haynes manual gives the basic outline but choosing hoses needs a bit more info.

That engine looks like its given sterling service. Many thank Kev

junior wrote:That is excellent Sorts out few pipes as well as the Haynes manual gives the basic outline but choosing hoses needs a bit more info.

That engine looks like its given sterling service. Many thank Kev

it got better james

these may be more useful....

Aah ! Excellent thanks for your time , a clear picture and a 1000 words and all that

Got a clutch off John at justsuds and now the two big bits bolted together. Hurrah.

Still struggling to find a auto electrician out here in the woods, but off to meet a chap Monday who used to race touring cars and works in a tyre

place to discuss shrews suggestions on tyres. Feels a bit early for tyres but while the chance is there it would be foolish to miss it.

Keep us posted mate, always keen to hear how wrong i can be! lol!

Finally it is in . Just have to sort out the one bolt on the subframe that gives hassle every time whether I fit it as the first or the last one.

Hi Junior
To get the trumpets and air filters to mount correctly I had to drill and tap holes in the top of my carbs. I think 2 are done but you have to do the other pair yourself.
All the best

rsfruitbat

Hi rsfruitbat.

That seems to be the only way as I spoke to a chap who races 33's the other day and he said the same. Thanks for verifying that.

May just fit the filters then and forget the bell mouths for now.

Thanks again.

Its a fairly simple job so dont be put off.
The trumpets will help.

rsfruitbat

rsfruitbat wrote:Its a fairly simple job so dont be put off.
The trumpets will help.

rsfruitbat

Agreed,

they only need a short thread and nip up, so the top plate of the carb is all you need to work on

Hi. Okay chaps I will look again at it. Thanks for the encouragement.

Just getting over having found some great door seals in Australia, sent a sample to a mate, he sent the stuff over at great expense and I made a mistake on the sample. I sent a piece from the boot cuttings I had rather than the door. Most annoying as it looks like very good stuff.

The ones I got from Autojumbles all keep the door slightly open. I believe 105's have the same problem where new seals have too much bounce.

So if you get a car from Australia get some door seals from Clarkes put in the boot.

What is the sensor coming off the carb manifold for

is it the Water Temp side?

That must be what it is. Thank you. Could not think for a moment and not sure if it used to be in the rad as I have a VW one.

Got the electric fuel pump fitted on side of spare wheel insert (?) then original metal pipe up the front of the car, then I surmise I mount the

fuel filter (glass smart one, cannot recall the name) in the engine bay, then fuel pipe to the carb with two connectors then from there to the other carb.

It looks right from what I have seen about but have I missed anything obvious.

Aside from as my mate keeps saying `Don't buy something in bits, or unusual, or on the spur of the moment, or beyond your capabilities'

junior wrote:Got the electric fuel pump fitted on side of spare wheel insert (?) then original metal pipe up the front of the car, then I surmise I mount the fuel filter (glass smart one, cannot recall the name) in the engine bay, then fuel pipe to the carb with two connectors then from there to the other carb. It looks right from what I have seen about but have I missed anything obvious.

Sounds OK to me - I queried the fuel pipe connections between dual carbs a while back, and in fact Alfa did it both ways on the 33 - single pipe into RH carb and then a pipe across to the LH (meaning one carb fills up before the other), or a T-piece and two equal length pipes to each carb.

With an electric fuel pump it shouldn't make much difference as the carbs will fill a lot quicker than a mechanical pump. What pump are you using? Facet?

Glass filter/pressure regulator sounds like a Malpassi Filter King, which is the one to go for.

It's really coming together now, can't wait to see the end result!

Lauren

Hi Lauren.

Yep, Malpassi it is with a Facet pump, and thanks for verifying that for me.

Glad your keen to see the end result as I am very much getting that feeling now.

Just struggling to find an auto electrician who does more than just tractors around here.

The only other place is a vintage car restoration specialist who's prices I think would scare me, but may need to ask soon.

junior wrote:Just struggling to find an auto electrician who does more than just tractors around here.

Are you trying to build a loom from scratch or modify an existing one?

Starting from scratch is less daunting than it sounds, and you only put in the functions that you absolutely need, so no unnecessary flim-flam. I reckon I've saved a few kilos on the Green Machine harness using this approach (and modern thinwall cable).

Lauren

100% agree with that Lauren


and being totally fresh cable and connections, and a modern blade fuse distribution box i.e. (http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/popup_imag ... 78&image=0)

will guarantee you fault free electrics for decades!


Priceless!

Followed your comments chaps and bought LEDS as could get them in almost the same size and shape as the rear reflectors so making some kind of link.



Took the wheels in fitted 205 / 60R 13's, for £360 which seems a good price for fitting and balance.

Great chaps as well, took time to advise on running pressures, where to get new seals plus did research on my options and prices before I got there.

Also one of the sons races pick up trucks and he thought he might have a last season harness I can have.

Then talked local people for graphics and electrics. Very impressed as they were busy through out the time I was there.

In case anyone over this way wants to use them its John Wood tyres, 101 -107 St Owen st Hereford 01432 358317

What did they say on pressures?

I've only used the r888r once, previously used the r888........note no 'r' on the end.

The r888r seems to take a bit longer to warm up, plus I didn't like the low pressure settings Toyo recommend. The r888r is supposed to be grippier when hot and not go off as quickly as the r888.

For street use in the dry, you'll need a bit more pressure I reckon to get some heat in them.

If you drive in the wet, let some air out. Are your shocks adjustable?

I use 185/60/13 and on a normal race day set fronts at 26psi and rears at 28psi when COLD. On a very hot day, so hot Tarmac, I'll drop the fronts to 24 and rears to 27/26 cold .

Ha, you were listening That is almost word for word what they said I should use aside from 28 at the rear.

Mainly it was to start my road use at 26 psi and then start working it out from there and accept advice off chaps like yourself if you seem credible.

So thanks for the figures. Yes my suspension is adjustable, and Keith thought I would find it too hard, but as he said its running different tyres etc and so

leave it, try it and then decide if my teeth are being rattled out.

New front lighter springs would not be a problem and changing the back to coil overs is held in reserve at the moment.

Best get a bi-metallic hazard flasher as Lauren suggests, thanks Lauren..

If anyone needs similar I found them cheapest as marker lights for the side of trucks.

A benefit from sitting on the M4 one Friday eve checking all the different ones I could see.

The rear end is light, no seats, Perspex window and fibre glass boot, I'd go 28 rears.

I'd also start your shocks off on the softest setting, and adjust from there.

Had a chance to do a bit on the car and so thought start up again easily and so tried to fit the front engine mount.

It was on the car originaly, and I remember it was fitted to the engine, but cannot recall if it was properly connected to the subframe.

Whichever, it now will not fit. So is there a big difference between the length of what was a 1400 engine and the now 1700 8v one ?

If I bolt the top mount up, then the front one is too far forward and vica versa. Any thoughts please, before I start modifying a well made bracket.



And pictures from Bromyard Speed Festival to give an idea of what was going on before Easter.

If pay and display car parks normally looked like this I would do the weekly shop happily.